From Gangotri to Gomukh

Not many Indian housewives make the Gomukh trip but I was an exception. The night before I had talked to my sons Siddharth and Kedar and they both urged me to make the attempt. The total distance to and fro is some 40 km, the height 14000 feet and the trip took 2 days. We started out at dawn and soon entered the Gangotri National Park, a protected reserve. I was careful enough not to throw plastic waste – this is Dev Bhumi (Divine Territory). But the route was at times perilous.

The path was narrow with cliffs rising on our left and a steep slope on the right.There were a couple of stretches of over a kilometre each where we had to put our bags on our head to avoid a shower pebbles and small stones from the denuded slopes above.

At one point I had to cross a stream (Chirganga) and the bridge consisted of a single log of wood! One false step and I would attain Chir Shanti (eternal rest) in the Chirgana. There were two more such streams and each time I negotiated the “log of wood” bridge with trepidation. At one point I was standing on a sandy stretch and someone pointed out that it was a glacier.

It was only then that I noticed shining rivulets running from it to the Bhagirathi.

But there were many compensations. The scenery was indescribably beautiful. The golden sheen on the three Bharirathi peaks at dawn, the sight of bharals (blue sheep) on which the snow leopard preys, the tall Shivlinga peak on which is etched a likeness of Ganesh, the deodhar trees, the pristine air.

I am a housewife and I adopted the approcah called “Shanay, shanaya” – slow, rest every kilometre or so and avoid bravado. But by the time I reached Gaumukh (14500 feet) I was exhausted beyond care and disoriented.

A German girl who walked with us collpased and wept with exhaustion and bone weariness. And then, for the first time I decided to do something you might call foolhardy. I decided to bathe in the Bhagirathi.

The sun was bright but the temperature was below zero. I felt that my head had split into smithreens, a thousand pieces. with the first splash of icy water.

After the bath I felt fresh though and prayed at a makeshift Shiva temple before making my way back.

Photographs :

The Bhagirathi peaks bathed in golden light.

The bharal (blue sheep) on which the snow leopard preys.

Bathing in the icy Bhagirathi near Gaumukh.

Crossing a perilous log of wood.

Hints: The Gaumukh area is now part of the Gangotri National Park, an extremely protected area, You must get prior permission at Uttarkashi or Gangotri to visit it.

There are a number of places where you can spend the night – Devganga, Chirbasa and one close to Gaumukh – Bhujwasa.

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